2-Week Scotland Itinerary: North Coast 500 Edition
In the European summer of 2021, the travel and tourism industry within the UK started to boom with the rise of ‘stay-cations’. After what had been a turbulent 18-months, some people were still fearful of heading overseas with the worry their trip would be cut short or they could be left isolating due to the dreaded ‘traffic-light system’. Personally, I was itching to get away, with the plan to leave for Canada only months away, but I also had an urge to explore a lot closer to home. Throughout the pandemic, I had taken a trip to the Lake District to climb Scafell Pike, and a trip to Wales to climb Snowdon; so, to tick off climbing the highest mountains of England, Scotland and Wales, there was only one place left for me to go.
Contents:
The classic VW Camper I had for the North Coast 500.
Day 1&2: Edinburgh
At the time of going, I was living in Sheffield, so my first stop of the trip, Edinburgh, was only a 4.5-hour drive away. Edinburgh is the hilly capital of Scotland and is made up of an old and new town. It is a great starting point for a road trip around the country as it fully immerses you into the Scottish culture.
There are plenty of things to do in this city depending on what you enjoy, but some things I can recommend are:
· Climbing to the top of Arthurs Seat for a 360 view of Edinburgh and the Lothians, followed by a picnic in Holyrood Park.
· Visiting Edinburgh Castle perched on top of Castle Rock to see important Scottish Artefacts and explore the grounds.
· Strolling down the Royal Mile to see historical sites, shop for souvenirs and finish off at Grassmarket for al fresco summer dining.
· If you’re a fan of Harry Potter, visit The Elephant House Café to see where JK Rowling sat and got a lot of her inspiration from.
· If you’re a comedy, arts and culture fan, the city hosts the Edinburgh Fringe Festival every August which is highly regarded worldwide.
I would recommend spending at least 2 nights in Edinburgh if you want to get a full feel of the city. It is a small, compact (but hilly) city with many cobbled streets, so put on your most sensible shoes and get some steps in as you explore.
View from Arthur’s Seat
Edinburgh Castle
Day 3: Edinburgh to Inverness via Loch Morlich Beach
Loch Morlich Beach on a sunny day in Scotland
I don’t know what happened when I went to Scotland, but it must have been the hottest 2 weeks on record for this typically cold and rainy country. On day 3, I set off for Inverness which is a 3-hour drive from the capital. I took a detour into the outskirts of the Cairngorms National Park and spent a few hours at Loch Morlich Beach. The sun was shining and as it was the UK school holidays, it was absolutely packed. Honestly, if it wasn’t for the view of the Cairngorms in the background, I would have thought I was in the south of France. Even if the weather isn’t in your favour, I would recommend stopping here as there is the also the Glenmore Forest Park with lots of hiking routes to explore.
Inverness was the next stop and marks the start of the world-famous North Coast 500. It is Scotland’s largest city and the cultural capital of the Scottish Highlands. My first task was to swap my diddy Citroen C1 for a classic VW Camper with no power steering and a dodgy brake, the pressure was on! As I was about to spend the next week fairly remote on the NC500, I took this as a chance to stock up on food and any camping supplies I needed. However, check out this Visit Scotland page for ideas on what to do there.
Day 4-9: North Coast 500
Dornoch Beach
The North Coast 500, or NC500 for short, is precisely a 516-mile loop of the North Scottish Highlands and is one of the world’s most famous road-trips. It is made up of white sandy beaches, isolated villages, mountains, and places you wouldn’t think existed in the UK. It is a slow drive, with lots of pulling over and not something that should be rushed. That being said, I would say 5 -7 days is just about enough time to pack in as much as possible.
As it is a loop, you can do it either clockwise or counterclockwise. I chose to go counterclockwise, starting my journey in Inverness-shire and heading through Black Isle, Easter Ross and into Caithness. My first stops were Dornoch Beach and Embo Beach. Dornoch Beach is a vastness of golden sand stretching past Embo Beach all the way to Loch Fleet National Nature Reserve. Embo Beach is also accompanied by sand dunes with pathways to explore your way through and lookout for local wildlife.
As you enter the Caithness portion of the NC500, you move from beaches to dramatic ‘end-of-the-earth’ style landscapes. Whaligoe Haven was my next stop, which is a harbour surrounded by 250 feet cliffs on 3 sides and reached only by the Whaligoe Steps. This is a popular spot for local fishing, which is enriched in the history here. A further 35-minutes along the route you will find yourself at Duncansby Stacks, which tower 60meters from the sea and are a must see before you reach John O’Groats.
Whaligoe Steps in Whaligoe Haven
Duncansby Stacks
John O’Groats
John O’Groats Signpost
Although John O’ Groats could be considered the ‘end-of-the-road’, with it being at the tip of mainland UK, it certainly isn’t the end of the NC500. John O’Groats is a good place to stop for the night, with accommodation and camping options in the village. I was also lucky enough to help some cyclists take their picture at the famous signpost to mark the start of their adventurous journey to Lands End to be able to say they have cycled the length of the UK. There are also plenty of coastal walking tracks in the area where you can spot seabirds.
Melvich Beach
Continuing west from John O’Groats, I drove through the most northernly town in mainland Scotland, Thurso, and eventually reached Melvich Beach. Melvich Beach is popular with surfers, walkers, and swimmers, and if you are lucky enough to be there on a hot day like I was, even sunbathers. The blue sea and golden sands make it hard to believe you’re standing at the top of Scotland looking out at the Atlantic Ocean. Once you’re finished taking in this beautiful beach, you can continue along to the North-west tip of Scotland where there are a few stops clustered together.
Smoo Cave
First up is Smoo Cave, a large, combined sea and freshwater cave which is free to explore and accessed by a circular walk starting from the carpark. If you wish, you can travel further into the cave on a guided tour. Next was the chocolate shop Cocoa Mountain where you can get “the best” hot chocolate and many other goodies to keep your sugar levels up for the long drives. I opted for some rocky road which was delicious. The last stop of this corner for me was Balnakeil Beach, another spectacularly clean and sandy beach to end the day and watch the sunset.
Deer at Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve
The next day I headed south through the Sutherland section of the route and into the Wester Ross portion. Down here you can see the sea stacks of the Old Man of Stoar, stop right off the highway to see the Clashnessie Falls and eventually reach Achmelvich Bay. The bay is known for many wildlife sightings including porpoises, dolphins, minke whales and is an ideal spot for rock pool fishing. I spent the night a little further along the route at the Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve and woke up to deer right outside my van.
For a bit of civilisation and a freshen up, I’d highly recommend spending a few hours the next day in Ullapool. Also, if you don’t have the luxury to wild camp in your van, Ullapool offers lots of accommodation options. Ullapool is a picturesque fishing town and known as a gateway to the northern highlands. If you are also looking to treat yourself to some local seafood, the famous Seafood Shack is located here, with queues out the door as soon as it opens.
Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve
Carrying on from Ullapool you’ll reach the Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve, which is a gorge formed from glacier meltdown and one of the most spectacular in the UK. This corner of the route has many beaches to stop at, my favourite being the Mellon Udrigle Beach mainly because it doubles as a campsite and offers amazingly dark skies for star gazing. However, if you’d rather carry on a little further, Shieldaig also offers a beautiful campsite on the water to watch the sunset.
If you’ve done research on the NC500, you will have most likely heard of the Applecross Pass. It’s a winding coastal road taking you from Shieldaig to Applecross and is the highest road in Britain. The road has many hairpin bends and can be daunting for the first time, especially with the many cyclists attempting to climb it alongside you. However, the views are worth it and visiting the extremely quaint town of Applecross, who largely rely on tourist trade, is a must for the NC500 bucket-list.
The final stop of the tour for me was a small village called Dornie, overlooking the Eilean Donan Castle. I spent the night in a local pub singing along to traditional Scottish live folk music and it was the perfect end to this portion of the trip.
Isle of Skye Detour
Before returning the van to Inverness, it made sense to do a quick detour to the beautiful Isle of Skye. This rugged and picturesque island is connected to mainland Scotland by a bridge making it easily accessible. My first stop was the Fairy Pools where you can walk alongside and swim in crystal clear water that snakes down the hillside into the River Brittle. The walking doesn’t end there as there is also the mysterious but popular Quiraing Walk which is a 6.8km loop passing through some of Scotlands most spectacular landscapes. As you drive to the northernmost point of the island, to Rubha Hunish, you can look out onto the stunning Sea of Hebrides and the rugged coastline.
Fairy Pools on the Isle of Skye
The Quiraing Hike, Isle of Skye
Day 10: Fort Augustus & Fort William
Loch Ness
It was time to say goodbye to the VW Camper which in all honesty, wasn’t hard for me to do. Getting back into my Citroen C1 felt like I was in a Formula 1 race car. Heading south from Inverness my first stop was Fort Augustus which is only just under an hour away. Most of the drive is taken up by taking in the view of Loch Ness and trying to spot the monster! Fort Augustus offers a lot for the adventurous souls including walking, water sports and cycling. There is also the heritage centre where you can learn the history of the 60-mile Caledonian Canal.
A short 45-minutes further south and you’re in the adventure capital of the Highlands, Fort William, ready to tackle the challenge of what started this whole trip.
Day 11: Ben Nevis
Peak of Ben Nevis
I started Ben Nevis early before the sun had even rose, which was probably one of my smartest decisions as it turned into an incredibly hot day, and I saw many people struggling and require rescuing on my way back down. It’s a very challenging hike on a normal day, so the heat can really exaggerate this. However, the views at the top were spectacular and I got so lucky with the 360 panoramic view I was treated to. I would highly recommend booking into the Glen Nevis Caravan & Camping Park right at the base of the mountain. Once you’ve showered and freshened up, you can sit and relax and watch the remaining people walk down well into the night.
Day 12: Harry Potter Detour
A brief drive east from Fort William can take you on a little Harry Potter detour. Whether you’re a fan or not, it’s cool to see. Your first stop will be Glenfinnan Viaduct, which is more famously known as the bridge that takes the Hogwarts Express to Hogwarts in the Harry Potter movies. Check out this blog post from Wander Somewhere to find out exactly how to make sure you see the infamous Jacobite Train pass by. A little further along the road and you will reach Eilean Na Moine Island, or better off, ‘Dumbledore’s Grave’. It is a tiny island surrounded by Loch Eilt which famously also featured in the film.
Glenfinnan Viaduct
Eilean Na Moine Island
Day 12 continued: Glencoe & Loch Lomond
Once you’re all Harry Potter’ed out, you can continue back through Fort William and South to Glencoe and the Hidden Valley. Even just driving through this area is stunning, however, it is worth pulling over and exploring some of the local hiking trails. Finally, you can end this day overlooking the largest freshwater lake in Britain, Loch Lomond. The scenery and wildlife here are outstanding and it’s the perfect place to watch the sunset.
Day 13 & 14: Glasgow
Just past Loch Lomond you’ll find Glasgow, and the last stop of this itinerary. Glasgow is famous for being one of the most diverse art scenes with vibrant nightlife, architecture, and music. As always when you come to the end of a big trip, the last stop sometimes doesn’t get your full attention. But there is plenty to do and see here from the botanical gardens to the cathedral, as well as live music and great food establishments. I spent my last night of the trip whisky tasting in a random pub before getting an early night!
Wild camping in Scotland:
Wild camping, unlike in England, is legal in Scotland. However, there are camping byelaws in certain popular areas such as Loch Lomond and National Parks. If it wasn’t for wild camping being legal, this trip would have been a lot more expensive. I was on a budget on this trip, hence why a lot of my recommendations are free places to visit rather than activities to do. Being able to wild camp is a privilege, so if you do plan to do something similar, make sure to leave no trace behind and be respectful of the area you are in. You may find it is frowned upon in certain places, so if you have the option to move on, do so. Remember it is people’s homes too. There is a whole section on the Visit Scotland website on wild camping, so make sure to check it out before you go!
Length of this trip:
The beauty of road tripping is you can speed it up or slow it down depending on how much time you have. I was limited to two weeks with this trip, so focused heavily on utilising driving stops with places I wanted to visit. It is essential to drive slow around the NC500, and with much of it being single lane, you’ll find yourself pulling over a lot. Therefore, if you give yourself at least 5 days minimum, you should be able to see most of the route. I was also incredibly lucky with the weather. If you’re planning to do Ben Nevis and don’t have much leeway with time, factor in that bad weather can make it difficult to complete.
Want to know more?
I hope you enjoyed this detailed itinerary of my time in Scotland. I love planning road trips and working out the best, most efficient way to do things, so if you have any questions please get in contact and let me know some of your favourite places if they’re not mentioned, because I’m sure I’ll return!
HEY, I’M LOZ!
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This is an insight into the life of a girl who likes to get lost. I write about all things travel and the outdoors. If you like my content please subscribe and if you really like it, please buy me a coffee so I can continue making content for you!