Through Volcanoes & Valleys: Hiking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a 20.2 km journey through the dramatic landscapes of Tongariro National Park, showcasing volcanic peaks, sweeping valleys, and striking emerald and blue geothermal lakes. Often celebrated as New Zealand's top day hike—and consistently ranked among the world's best—the crossing offers a glimpse into the wild beauty of New Zealand’s oldest national park, also a dual UNESCO World Heritage Site. While the vistas are breathtaking, the trek demands preparation, as the rugged terrain and unpredictable weather can pose real challenges. Here, I'll guide you through everything you need to know, from transportation and accommodation options to packing essentials and what to expect on the day.

Contents:

1. Before the Hike

   • Getting There

   • Accommodation

   • Transport to the Crossing

   • Other Important Pre-Hike Factors

   • What to Pack

2. During the Hike

3. Post Hike & Other Recommendations for the Tongaririo National Park

Before the Hike:

Getting There

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is nestled within Tongariro National Park, located in the heart of New Zealand’s North Island. Approximately 330 km south of Auckland and 320 km north of Wellington, it's a must-see destination on any north island road trip. While buses are available—Intercity offers routes from both Auckland and Wellington—traveling by car is often the best option. A car allows you the flexibility to explore the numerous other scenic spots and hidden gems around the park beyond just the Crossing. With your own wheels, you can fully immerse yourself in the beauty and diversity that this iconic national park has to offer. I hired my car through Ezi Car Rental from Auckland International Airport.

Accommodation

The national park area offers a wide range of accommodation options, with nearby villages like National Park, Whakapapa, Raurimu, and Erua providing everything from budget-friendly hostels and campsites to charming lodges and boutique suites. You can browse accommodation options here Booking.

I chose to stay in Whakapapa Village at the Whakapapa Holiday Park. Initially, I had booked a non-powered campsite, but with rainy weather setting in, we upgraded to a cozy cabin for $100 NZD per night. This included access to all the facilities—kitchen, hot showers, and a drying room, which was a lifesaver for drying out my soaked tent! The location was also perfect, just a 20-minute drive from our early morning starting point.

For a relaxing end to the day, I’d recommend stopping by the Skotel Alpine Resort after 4 p.m. Their bar has a warm, old-school charm with European ski resort vibes, and the views are unbeatable. It’s the perfect spot to unwind after a day in the mountains.

Transport to the Crossing

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a one-way trek, which can make transportation logistics a bit challenging. Luckily, several companies offer shuttle services to simplify the process. The most popular approach—and the one I used—is to park your car at the end of the trail on Ketetahi Road, then take a shuttle to the trailhead at Mangatepopo Car Park. This way, you can finish your hike right at your vehicle.

Alternatively, you could start at Mangatepopo and arrange for a shuttle back from Ketetahi, but keep in mind that Mangatepopo’s parking is limited to 4 hours. Some hikers opt to start there, walk halfway to see the highlights, then turn back—but if you want the full experience, I recommend completing the entire route.

I booked my shuttle with Ruapehu Scenic Shuttles for $60 NZD per person. You can reserve through their website or on platforms like BookMe or GetYourGuide. A portion of the fee supports the Department of Conservation (DOC) to maintain the trail and protect the local environment.

The shuttle service was fantastic at staying in touch with me, especially about the weather, which can be unpredictable in spring. Originally, I planned to hike two days earlier, but they recommended waiting until Sunday due to the forecast, and I’m so glad I did—the weather turned out perfect!

Other Important pre-hike factors

Spring weather in the mountains can be unpredictable, with lingering snow often present. Be sure to check the forecast, regardless of the season, to plan accordingly. If you're incorporating this hike into a road trip, consider building in some flexibility around your hike day; clear weather can make all the difference, and you won’t want to turn back due to poor conditions.

From November to late April, you can generally expect snow-free trails, making it ideal for hiking. However, from May to October, snow and ice are common, so alpine skills are essential. During these months, it’s wise to consider going with a guide or choosing an alternative hike if you’re not experienced with winter conditions.

One last note: the Department of Conservation (DOC) requires you to book the hike in advance, though there’s no cost, and checks are rare. Booking helps the DOC track visitor numbers, so it’s worth doing just in case.

What to pack

Packing and dressing for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a personal decision and depends on your comfort level and preparedness for potential weather changes. I personally packed on the heavier side, as we had been advised about possible rough weather, and I didn’t mind the extra weight—it doubled as practice for longer hikes I had planned on the South Island. Below, I’ve listed everything I brought along, with notes on how essential I found each item.

Gear:

·       Hiking poles – this was my first time using them and I actually enjoyed having them. I only used them for the descent as it is 10km of going down switchbacks, stairs and uneven platforms.

·       First aid kit – specific items are blister plasters, water purification tablets, matches and other common first aid equipment e.g. antiseptic wipes, bandages etc.

·       Head torch – just in case!

·       Bivvy bag – just in case!

·       Pocket knife

Water/snacks:

·       3litre CamelBak Hydration Bladder – 100% worth it.

·       1litre Powerade – a great boost of electrolytes and vitamins to support you on the long walk back to the car.

·       Snacks e.g. nut bars, sweets, bananas, sandwiches, fruit and nut mixes.

Clothing:

I wore:

·       Zip-off hiking trousers.

·       A base layer.

·       A fleece (I took this off once I started the ascent but then put it back on at the top).

·       A windbreaker

·       Hiking boots + socks

·       Beanie

I took:

·       An extra down waterproof jacket which I didn’t end up wearing

·       Gloves – essential! My hands got extremely cold at the top and I wore them for most of the descent.

·       A cap

Something I wish I took:

·       A snood – my face got cold!

Electronics:

·       Portable phone charger – my phone loses charge quickly when its cold!

·       Camera

This list is primarily tailored for hiking in cold and wet spring conditions, so some items, like a down jacket, snood, and beanie, may not be essential if you’re confident it’ll be a warm summer day. However, if you don’t mind carrying the extra weight—or can split the load with a hiking partner—there’s no harm in being over-prepared!

During the Hike:

Now for the exciting part—the hike itself! The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a well-marked trail and is especially popular between November and April, so you’ll likely have plenty of fellow hikers around. This means you don’t need to worry too much about maps or guides, as the path is straightforward to follow. You’ll also find toilets along the route (with some spectacular views!), spaced about every 1-2 hours depending on your pace, but be sure to bring your own toilet paper.

The hike begins with a gentle, mostly flat 5 km from the Mangatepopo car park, offering stunning landscapes and views. There’s an optional side trail to Soda Springs along the way, and after passing this, the ascent begins. The next 5 km is mostly uphill, with a few flat sections for a breather. Underfoot, you’ll encounter loose volcanic rock, which can be tricky and requires solid footing. Eventually, you’ll reach Red Crater, the highest point of the crossing at 1,886 m. Both Red Crater and Mt. Ngauruhoe (aka "Mount Doom") are the most recently formed features on the crossing, with the deep red colour due to iron oxidation in the rock. Expect the wind to bite here!

After Red Crater, you’ll descend steeply into the Emerald Lakes area, where you’ll start to catch the scent of sulfur from geothermal activity. This is a rocky, steep descent, so take it slow. After Emerald Lakes, you’ll continue on to Blue Lake, a great spot to stop for lunch as it’s about halfway. From here, the descent continues with a series of switchbacks, stairs, and uneven paths. Descending doesn’t necessarily mean it’s easier—this section can be challenging! One of the more mentally taxing parts of this hike is that if you parked at Ketetahi Road, you’ll be able to see your car during the switchbacks, but it never seems to get any closer!

Eventually, you’ll reach the woodland area, which signals you’re nearing the Ketetahi car park. My second least favorite part of this hike: if you, like me, parked at Ketetahi Road, reaching the car park doesn’t mean you’re done! There’s still another 1 km to go to get back to your car, though for me, this beat waiting for a shuttle.

My stats:

Everyone hikes at different paces, and there is no right or wrong speed. But just for your awareness I have put my Strava stats below as a rough guide.

Post Hike & other recommendations for the Tongaririo National Park:

After the hike, we were recommended to visit the Tokaanu Hot Pools just outside Taupo, only a 20-minute drive away. We booked a private pool for $14 per person, but I have to admit, I wouldn’t strongly recommend it. The 20-minute time limit felt a bit rushed, and the facilities were somewhat dated. There may be nicer hot pools in the area, but a hot soak was definitely refreshing after a long hike.

If you’re a Lord of the Rings fan, a short walk to Tawhai Falls (also known as Gollum’s Pools) is well worth it. It’s an easy walk, and this scenic spot was used as a filming location in the second film.

For even more activities in the area, check out this page for a variety of attractions and things to do: National Park Adventures & Activities.

And that wraps up my complete guide to hiking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing! This hike is a must-do for anyone exploring New Zealand’s North Island—you’ll quickly see why it’s so highly rated and beloved by visitors. If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment or email me, and don’t forget to subscribe to get blogs like this straight to your inbox!